View Full Version : How to: Remove your crank pulley.
panicronic
12-29-2009, 07:59 AM
Ive been priding myself on "sloppy solutions" lately and I just thought I would share this with other j series owners.
I was changing my timing belt the other day and my impact just wasn't getting the job done. So I went for my chain wrench. It was gone.
Then I noted a 1/4 inch hole right in front of the teeth on the flywheel. Some experimentation later and I have discovered that holding a pointy bolt into that hole is by far the smartest thing I have done in weeks.
Just finger pressure was enough to hold it there and use a big pipe with a socket on it to break the crank pulley loose.
Kind of ashamed but none the less still impressed with myself.
Exhibit A: The bolt (note its pointy nature)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2515/4224183627_d61ec18de4_b.jpg
Exhibit B: Bolt in hole
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4224183701_5b2f38a9b8_b.jpg
jtrix21
12-29-2009, 04:02 PM
After that, you used an impact gun?
kind of off topic, but still pretty helpful i think.
Does anyone have any idea what goes in, or what these circled holes are for?
http://i46.tinypic.com/1zq8vbq.jpg
I need to put something in there. It's a direct passage way for water/moister to enter the clutch housing in the transmission. This will lead to difficult starts, especially if water freezes overnight.
panicronic
12-29-2009, 10:02 PM
find some "polyurethane roof flashing". You can get it at Menards or Home Depot.
Tough as a terminator, but you can put a screw through it and it will pull back out of the hole in case you need to put something there.
Ive made motor mounts of the stuff and its REALLY freaking tough.
jtrix21
12-29-2009, 10:56 PM
i'm guessing that was to answer my question, so you're saying fill in the holes? My only concern with doing that is it takes quite a bit for polyurethane (window weld) to dry, and thanks to gravity, i don't like the idea of squeezing polyurethane over my flywheel. or does that stuff dry quicker?
panicronic
12-30-2009, 02:07 AM
i'm guessing that was to answer my question, so you're saying fill in the holes? My only concern with doing that is it takes quite a bit for polyurethane (window weld) to dry, and thanks to gravity, i don't like the idea of squeezing polyurethane over my flywheel. or does that stuff dry quicker?
I suppose a better idea would be to get a bar of metal epoxy. (4 dollar brick of epoxy they sell at parts counters, looks like a roll of quarters)
Its nice and thick, so when you apply it there would be no worry of drippage.
Then its also about the same color and you can sand it as well.
Funny thing is that I was thinking of the same problem when I took that picture 8)
jtrix21
12-30-2009, 05:42 AM
i see i see, well i was thinking something also like JB weld, but i'm not too sure why those are there to begin with? I know that i had water being pumped out of those holes before, while the flywheel is spinning it's creating a pump/vacuum.
with that in mind, i'm not too sure if covering the holes shut completely is a good idea. I was thinking a 1 way check valve of some sort. Maybe i'll JB weld some check valves from the brake booster, that way they're secure, in place, and any thing that needs to come out of the clutch housing will....
edit, since your starter is out and what not, would you mind taking a pic or feeling inside that starter hole to see what's on the other side of those 3 holes? i am pretty sure they're not threaded holes. When i looked on acuraautomotiveparts.com or .org, nothing is shown that belongs there...
panicronic
12-30-2009, 10:13 PM
sure man....ill check it out later today
Rajca
03-02-2010, 03:09 AM
im not 100% sure but i think that those holes are for bolts that hold the front engine dampner in place. im almost positive that its for that
jtrix21
04-23-2010, 04:07 PM
So i'm thinking some 10x45 bolts to plug those holes should do the trick.
according to this picture
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s3m01_b4701.png
Good method. I bolted my flywheel to the block to get my pulley off using a piece of flat stock. Still took all of my weight to get it off.
acidbath124
04-23-2010, 08:23 PM
this was really helpful with the engine in the car i used it last weekend
IDon'tKnow
04-23-2010, 09:23 PM
I got my crank pulley off last night. I had the motor out on a stand and torn down, so this won't work if it's in the car. I just wedged a piece of 6061 stock between the crank counterweight and the block to stop the crank from turning. I had to use an 15" long 1/2" flex head and attach a 20" extention..... which was actually a pipe bender. That thing was a booger - took me forever.
bdbconcepts
10-10-2010, 05:58 PM
i am not sure but I think
those holes are for where the front motor mount casting from like a tl or accord is normally bolted to the front motor mount....
edit...nvm the holes you have there are further up on the bellhousing...
I am guessing it was brackets for the harness or the water pipe assembly?
not really sure..I am gonna have to look under my hood and reedit this reply...
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