My build

[wolydotmatrix]

posted on another forum a fairly detailed install. if you have any questions please let me know. I do all my own work. My ride is a track whore not a trailer queen. I like to drive fast while turning with other @ss holes just like me. So check out my build and I hope it can help some one with thiers
http://www.honda-tekh.com/thread?id=3652

[Becoming]

Some wiring help would be nice, no one else seems to wanna take the time to help explain any of it. Would be a really great help due to me not being a very good wiring kinda person....and i'm almost to the point of having to do it on the swap i'm doing for my friend.

[wolydotmatrix]

Which part of the wiring??
I am getting Tim Beadle from API to fix my harness so its pretty much plug and play. Plus he's taking out the imobilizer

[wolydotmatrix]

If I had an 03 CL-S ETM from Acura I could do it my self but my guys over there won't let me borrow one just yet, I guess I could make some copies at Kinkos.

[Becoming]

I'm gonna be doing it different than Tim does due to Acidbath wanting to tuck the wires that are on the strut tower from the factory and not having to cut his CL-S harness, and it will also clean up his engine bay a little more with what all we are gonna be doing during his build. But to be 100% sure that we have it wired correctly would be nice....

[hondaboy4life]

What exactly do you need? schematic wise.

Does this help? (see attachment below) I know it isn't a wiring diagram. I only had a short amount of time to look around on a honda service tech site and save what i could. I have a few other things that mighhtt help.

I am running a fully tucked bay as well... Your friend is going to need to splice into his harness if he wants to run the motor in his car haha unless he runs some sort of jumper harness that starts near the ecu and utilizes those plugs...

[Becoming]

I got the service manual from the CL-S and starting to figure it out from there, but haven't gotten into it too much because when we put the engine and trans into the car the first time was just to check out the bracket to frame rail clearance and was pulled out to tuck the brake lines and run the fuel lines. Should be getting the rest of the fittings Monday and engine should be going back down into the bay later in the week with the harness on it to start on the wiring.

[hondaboy4life]

Alrighty, keep us updated and goodluck!

[Rywire]

Ask me questions, im doing a harness as we speak!

[wolydotmatrix]

My car is not pretty enough to get the tuck treatment.
"Ask me questions, im doing a harness as we speak! "
What are you charging for an untucked plug and play harness??
Just wondering??

[Becoming]

Ask me questions, im doing a harness as we speak!


Ok...were did you start? JK, but a real question is how are you gonna run the wires that come outta the ECU to the dash?

[Rywire]

The ones that come out of the A plug?? Most go straight to the old ecu plugs... looks like the tach signal and vss can go back into the main loom, and enter through the drivers side 14pin connector.

[Becoming]

The ones that come out of the A plug?? Most go straight to the old ecu plugs... looks like the tach signal and vss can go back into the main loom, and enter through the drivers side 14pin connector.


Yea, but we have the dash pulled and are gonna tuck the factory chassis harness that enters the engine bay so it's cleaner, so we will end up running all of them on the dash side. What about the wires that are on the drivers side of the engine harness, are any of them gonna have to be run into the cabin to the dash harness?{haven't got that far yet}

[paton]

So are most of you cutting the factory plugs off the cabin harness and soldering on the CL plugs?

I'm getting into a J32 swap at the end of this month and am trying to be as prepared as possible. I have a box of assorted factory honda wiring from 3 different cars. I want to color match everything I can.

[Rywire]

Here is what I did, I know the eg pinout for the 14 position plug, and the 2 pin... I looked to see what was needed on those functions, and sourced them at the J harness... most are located on the J plugs that branch out (for the shocktower). If you want this tucked, you can run those shocktower plugs into the main loom, then directed over to the drivers side after the firewall.

[Becoming]

So are most of you cutting the factory plugs off the cabin harness and soldering on the CL plugs?


You can also get the A plug that comes out of the CL ECU from any K series engine harness, I cut mine from the CRV harness that wasn't used when I did my K swap.

[wolydotmatrix]

Not to change subject, or anything but I got some more pics up today
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3829.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3836.jpg

[Becoming]

Nice mummy ::) JK, but should help with heat absorbtion up towards the intake manifold.

[hondaboy4life]

mmm hondabond. Nice meeting you today sir, can't wait to see the beast running!

[wolydotmatrix]

I think I accomplished the main goal of keeping the shift cables, ALT, Drop box and heater hoses cooler. This being a track-ride, with 20-30 minute sessions, I wanted to cut as much heat out as possible. I might go ahead and do the rest of the b-pipe. FYI that was about 50' of 3" fiber-glass header wrap and around 8' of saftey-wire.

[tegman88]

hey to the guy asking about the harness im putting this swap in an ek and what i did was let tim do the hard part and im going to just move the wires where i need them later i should have my harness back by tuesday along with everything else i need and ill reply back and let you know how it goes i hope to have it running by friday and ill start my own build thread after i take plenty of pics to let you know how it goes

[hondaboy4life]

can't wait! you and woly (adam) are int he same time frame it sounds like.

[wolydotmatrix]

Cool, Friday is the day. If things go as planned.
I got my IAB driver relocated, coolant tank relocated and the strut bar installed. waiting t post the pics up until I get the harness back, hopefully FRIDAY. We'll see.

[wolydotmatrix]

Made somemore changes. Well I guess I fixed somethying overlooked during installation.
Complaint: my 1st 3rd 5th are on the bottom and 2nd 4th 6th and Rev are on top. (HHHHMMMMMM)
Cause: 03 CL-S trans with 03 Accord v6 MT shifter. The Shift-Arm on my trany locates the shift-arm pin oppisite the counterweight. The pin location on the Accord and newer TL's is on the same side as the counter weight. Therefore the shifter will pull when it should push. (making sense yet, I eventually made sense of shifting upward for reverse.)
Correction: (A) pull trans out, remove arm and relocate pin
(B) Leave trans in car, make a pin, install pin in correct location for Accord shifter.

Here is what I did
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3848.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3851.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3849.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3853.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_3856.jpg

[hondaboy4life]

Added to the Transmission thread thanks Adam.

[wolydotmatrix]

She lives
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnwMu59Uh1g
missing some pics I promised but, well I just forgot

[hondaboy4life]

CONGRATS!

[Becoming]

Them things sounds sooo damn sexy!

[wolydotmatrix]

Gonna try a get in car cam up and running soon. haven't used it in a while.

[wolydotmatrix]

Small update:
Speedo works (registers high, but works)
Installed new Radiator (Delsol Vtec )
Made new camera mount( old one one won't work with the Roll cage)
Lowered and realigned my seat ( my big fat head and helmet won't fit with the new roll cage)

I will have track vedio after this weekend. HPDE at Carolina Motorsports Park.

Running Kumho 710's 225/50/15 on the front and 205/50/15 on the rear. Hope to have some good traction out of the 50 tread. I ran this same setup with 80 less hp and 100 less ftlbs (LS VTEC) and seemed to do well. We'll see

[wolydotmatrix]

Vids are up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw_TisxhCE0

And another
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuYNUpfFStA

Enjoy.

[junior78]

hey adam are you still using stock clutch and flywheel

[hondaboy4life]

yes he is.

[junior78]

oh really how is it holding up

[wolydotmatrix]

Stock V6 Accord clutch and flywheel. Brand new form Parts Dept. Clutch is holding very well. I try not to abuse it too much. Looks like the swap will just about have to come out to replace it. Not to mention the cost ($200). Durring the (7) 20 minute sessions I felt no clutch slippage at all what so ever. 95 degrees ambient 92% humidity at the track. I have not run the 1/4 mile, I usually end up with a shitty reaction time. I know of others using even a used clutch and running low 12's numerous times without slip or failure.

I assume this is what you were asking

[junior78]

Stock V6 Accord clutch and flywheel. Brand new form Parts Dept. Clutch is holding very well. I try not to abuse it too much. Looks like the swap will just about have to come out to replace it. Not to mention the cost ($200). Durring the (7) 20 minute sessions I felt no clutch slippage at all what so ever. 95 degrees ambient 92% humidity at the track. I have not run the 1/4 mile, I usually end up with a shitty reaction time. I know of others using even a used clutch and running low 12's numerous times without slip or failure.

I assume this is what you were asking

lol yeah that is exactly what i wanted to hear i need a clutch and flywheel the dealer wants 800 for the flywheel and 300 (canadian) for the clutch im using a 2004 acura tl tranny bully said they would make me a custom clutch stage 3 for 700 bucks i just dont wanna cough out 8bills on the flywheel

[acidbath124]

i spoke to a guy yesterday that said you can now get the aasco lightweight flywheels for under 400 with or without the crank triggers and i believe he said they weigh 13lbs

[wolydotmatrix]

I was under the impression that the light weight flywheel on these engines caused excess chatter under engagement. The added weight of the flywheel (stock) and its 2 piece design is very reliable. The design cuts down on transmission shock = saves your gears.
I don't know about you guys but I would put 3 or 4 clutches in before I start buying gear sets and synchro's. Just a thought.

I would have to drive with both to determine which I felt was better. Maybe someday though.

[civicdrivr]

Ive not heard of anyone with any trouble regarding the Aasco flywheel. Ive actually read nothing but praise for it because it isnt dual mass, so you dont get that odd clutch engagement.

[junior78]

to be honest i think im just gonna run the stock flywheel i think with all the torque these motors have i believe there is really no need for a lightweight fw especially when your in a light chasis like a civic

[wolydotmatrix]

I got my used flywheel for $90, good for the budget.

[junior78]

dude hook me up lol

[hondaboy4life]

I've thought about looking into a lightweight flywheel. My stock one is nice and smooth though. One thing i dont really like about the stock flywheel is the rev hang it seems to have. Anyone else notice this?

[civicdrivr]

^^Yup. Thats because its dual mass. The AASCO flywheel, which is the same one used in the ClutchMasters kits, isnt dual mass so the car shifts they way god intended :p

[wolydotmatrix]

The rev hang works good for me on down shifts. Some times I don't even have to blip the throttle to get the revs up. Although is a little pain around town.

[kulrevon]

just thought this would be useful for some.

clutch kit for the j's

http://cl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=485026

[wolydotmatrix]

Haven't updated this page much but I will do what I can.

New radiator installed with new fan. This helped keep engine temps down while on track.

Installed new inserts from Hasport. Went with 70A inserts to help with engine movement on acceleration and deceleration.

Removed the axles and changed the outboard grease to full synthetic. Advised from Keith at Hasport. Due to the increased heat from braking from 100+ 45 times in a 30 minutes session and the constant load while turning the conventional grease has a tendency to break down and seperate. I like my axles and can't afford new ones just yet.

Changed the alignment allot. -3.5 camber in the front -1.8 camber in the rear with -0.10 toe front and 0.0 toe on the rear. With this the car handled a if it were on rails until the front tires gave out. Chorded both fronts, each had dinner plate sized flap coming off.

For this winter I plan on building the spare 3.5 ody bottom end and replacing ball joints, tie rod ends, and wheel bearings in the front. The chasis has over 200k on it and about 20 of those are on track. Just a little peace of mind.

Still trying source a good inexpensive tuning tool for my ECU before I put the 3.5 short block on.

Any suggestions?

[wolydotmatrix]

Ah, almost forgot. I found my high idle issue. I used a j30 accord TB gasket on my J32 TB
here is a slight difference. I had a small vaccum leak (hammer on head). no more rev hang and or surge.

[Singlecam_eg]

Wat kind of tuning are u trying to do? Just fuel and ignition? Or did u have sumthin more exstensive in mind?

[wolydotmatrix]

the 3.5 will have cl-s pistons, cl-s heads very mild port work just casting. The rest is pretty much same as I hav now. Just trying to get closer to the 300hp mark.

[Singlecam_eg]

the 3.5 will have cl-s pistons, cl-s heads very mild port work just casting. The rest is pretty much same as I hav now. Just trying to get closer to the 300hp mark.
.
Well with u bumpin the compression and using a the ported cl-s heads all you truly need to tune is gonna be air/fuel and ignition timing which the AEM F/IC can handle just fine it'll run u about 500-600 and its a piggyback system. But I would suggest using that and a VAFC so u have vtec control aswell but a vafc u can find for 100 or less if u shop around. With those 2 piggyback systems u can control your air/fuel, ignition, and vtec. Unless you were lookin for sumthin more?

[hondaboy4life]

From what i understand you can't advance timing with a FI/C only retard timing.

[wolydotmatrix]

Thanx, I will do someshoping and see what I can find.

[Singlecam_eg]

From what i understand you can't advance timing with a FI/C only retard timing.
.
You are correct. But that is the down fall of a piggyback system like the F/IC. It can only delay/change the signal from the ecu it cannot create its own signal which is wat u need to advance timing.

[Singlecam_eg]

Thanx, I will do someshoping and see what I can find.
.
Also I forgot to mention it if you are only planning on changing the air/fuel ratio and vtec and don't wanna mess with timing at all the vafc2 or the neo can handle that for you

[wolydotmatrix]

From what I have seen shopping around the f/ic 6 is going to be the best bang for the buck.
not much difference in price from either one.

[Singlecam_eg]

From what I have seen shopping around the f/ic 6 is going to be the best bang for the buck.
not much difference in price from either one.
.
Yea they are pretty fairly priced for being AEM but are u gonna be retarding your timing or just doin fuel adjustments?

[wolydotmatrix]

for the price I'll probobaly do the AEM. gives more options and more detailed tune. Me and my brother (engineer) have a guy that lets us play around on his dyno as long as we show him what were doing. HEe is an old school gear head and is new to the tuning sceen.
wants to learn as much as he can, for discounted dyno time. The AEM unit looks like it will do all I want and have extra stuff i might use later on.

[wolydotmatrix]

Just found these pics from a buddy of mine.

[Brad]

Cool pics. What sway bars are you running?

[wolydotmatrix]

ITR rear, 94 ex coupe front.

[wolydotmatrix]

Might be going to the dyno for a base-line on friday.

[wolydotmatrix]

Stopped by storage and looked over the newly aquired J35 complete longblock. 01 Odyssey
and a 2000 accord J30 both with under 100k. Gotta finish building a B20 for a friend first then my motor comes out for reconstruction. As I get closer to the new project I will get pics up of the process.

[hondaboy4life]

You have a certain day in mind your going to do the build? if so let me know sounds like something i'd like to spectate if i have the time.

[wolydotmatrix]

I will let you know when I pull the J out, unless your talking about the B series. B gets assembly Saturday if the conversion dowels come in.

[hondaboy4life]

J

[wolydotmatrix]

Well I finally got back from the Dyno. Just some back to back base lines.

[splat]

Nice numbers.

[wolydotmatrix]

Sort of what I expected. I hope to get the new configuration up and running by the endof March. shooting for the 300/260 mark

[wolydotmatrix]

Got video up tonight of the Dyno pull.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rE1tK1Q1sM

[Screech`:)]

sick dude. I love the coors sitting there. haha. where was this done?

[wolydotmatrix]

Across the street from work is an old school gear head "Less" does really good work on domestic's "mustangs and such" He road races as well American Iron series. He is still learning the imports and gives me and my brother ahard time. Funny as hell. Hwy 74, go past Dale Jarret Ford (from CLT toward Monroe) Interstate Batteries on right, take next right and its back behind Intrstate Batteries.

[-Redneckdave-]

Stock V6 Accord clutch and flywheel. Brand new form Parts Dept. Clutch is holding very well. I try not to abuse it too much. Looks like the swap will just about have to come out to replace it. Not to mention the cost ($200). Durring the (7) 20 minute sessions I felt no clutch slippage at all what so ever. 95 degrees ambient 92% humidity at the track. I have not run the 1/4 mile, I usually end up with a shitty reaction time. I know of others using even a used clutch and running low 12's numerous times without slip or failure.

I assume this is what you were asking


I see you said you don't want to abuse the stock clutch and flywheel, but I don't think you should worry. I put over 50,000 miles on a stock clutch and pressure plate and I replaced them when I replaced reverse. There was only 30 thousandths worn off the clutch disc when It was replaced and I had abused it quite a bit. I am not worried about upgrading mine until we get my turbo kit intalled and even then we will have to see when it lets go.

[wolydotmatrix]

I see you said you don't want to abuse the stock clutch and flywheel, but I don't think you should worry. I put over 50,000 miles on a stock clutch and pressure plate and I replaced them when I replaced reverse. There was only 30 thousandths worn off the clutch disc when It was replaced and I had abused it quite a bit. I am not worried about upgrading mine until we get my turbo kit intalled and even then we will have to see when it lets go.

Good to know. Thanks for your input.

Adam

[wolydotmatrix]

I finally got around to picking up my J35A4 from storage this weekend. It was free so the price was right. My budy pulled it out of an ODY 2 years ago and could not remember why. Well let's just say i found out.
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4136.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4137.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4138.jpg

After a phone call, his memory was refreshed about a fuel sys service gone bad ie. hydrolocked #1 cylinder and the engine developed a slight "knock".
The piston got the worst of it. Oh well, new rod is only $25 from parts and I will be on my way again.

[wolydotmatrix]

I took the lower Intake runners off the J35 and started cleaning them up a little. I am not try to reshape the runners but rather cleaning up the factory cast marks.http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4122.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4123.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4128.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4131.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4135.jpg

I only had 120 grit sand rolls.. This brings me to a question you guys might can help me with. I need some pics of one intake port at the head from a true Type S head. these ODY heads have a small indentation at the bottom of the runner. I want to match the ports but only if the Type heads have this indentation.
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q413/wolydotmatrix/IMG_4134.jpg

[IDon'tKnow]

Woly, the port work is looking good. Is that a perspective effect in the picture of the bottoms of the fuel injectors bases or did you enlarge them? I know you said you weren't trying to enlarge anything, just clean up the casting marks, but they look bigger. I see for sure that you de-shrouded the area where the injector sprays. Are you going to match that with the head?

I'm guessing my J32A2 engine is considered true Type-S:
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss244/easyauctionsal/dsc_5250.jpg

[wolydotmatrix]

Thank you for pics sir.

[wolydotmatrix]

Woly, the port work is looking good. I see for sure that you de-shrouded the area where the injector sprays. Are you going to match that with the head?
]

Yes, I will be using the gasket as my gauge and de-shrouding the runner and the head to match. I finished up the last runner today at work with some 80 grit. should be able to get pics up soon. Thanks for your input sir.

Adam.

[changaroo]

did you do those runners by hand? or air tool?

[RMXmitch]

your project is sick dude.. keeps getting better.